Dispatches from Kyiv
First-hand accounts, war history, and the context that the news cycle doesn't cover.
Kyiv Under Drones — What It's Like Living in a City Targeted by Shahed-136
The Iranian-designed Shahed-136 kamikaze drone has become the soundtrack of life in Kyiv. Here's what that actually means on the ground.
What Happened in Irpin — And Why It Matters
Irpin was the first major battle of Russia's 2022 invasion and the first town Ukraine liberated. Here is what happened, what you can still see, and why this place changed the course of the war.
Inside Ukraine's Strategic Nuclear Arms Museum — What You'll Actually See
The only museum in the world housed in a decommissioned Soviet nuclear missile base. What to expect, and why it matters more than ever.
What Actually Happened in Bucha — An Eyewitness Account
The Russian occupation of Bucha lasted 33 days. This is what was found when Ukrainian forces returned, and what you can still see today.
War Tourism or Solidarity Tourism? Why the Distinction Matters
The term "dark tourism" gets used to describe visits to Kyiv. Here's why that framing misses what's actually happening — and who's actually coming.
Kyiv or Kiev? Why the Spelling Change Matters More Than You Think
The switch from "Kiev" to "Kyiv" in the English-language press is not pedantry. It reflects something fundamental about identity, language, and the war.
Is Kyiv Safe to Visit Right Now? An Honest Answer from the Ground
A realistic, first-hand assessment of safety in Kyiv during the ongoing war — written by a guide who lives and works here.
Kyiv Metro During Air Raids — The Underground City That Never Stopped
When sirens sound in Kyiv, hundreds of thousands descend into the metro. Here is what actually happens underground — how the system works, what people do, and what it tells you about the city.
Ukraine Tours at the End of 2022: What Kyiv Felt Like After the First Year of Full-Scale War
Ukraine tours in late 2022 were not ordinary travel experiences. Kyiv was dark, cold, resilient, and still standing after Russia failed to take the capital.